I just purchased some clear turn signal lenses and was wondering if anyone can give me a heads up on how to remove the factory orange housing.

 

Remove grille. There are lots of threads on that. Remove or drop down fender liner. There are 3 screws on the back of the housing and it will remove to the front.

 

sweet... thats what i figured. I purchased led switch back lights. goodbye amber parking lights... hello white running lights that switch back to ambver w turn signal.. i also purchased clear side markers with white led's.

 

No need to remove fender liner, and most the clips break anyway. Remove the grille and then remove the headlight and unplug all harnesses, three connections I believe. Three bolts and a self tap screw holds the headlight assembly. Then remove the three self tap screws on the back of the signal housing

 

at best this sounds like a nightmare, if you can do the job by breaking the tabs off the fender liner,,,,how much trouble is it to reattach it in a secure way??

the liner sounds easier

oh any pics?

 

I have done it on all 3 of my H3's and never broke one of the pins. The reason I don't remove the whole headlight is that a ballest is involved. It has 2 faced tape and on the passenger side I mount it just forward of the air intake with the lip just above the inner fender to help support it. On the drivers side, I also let the lip above the inner fender support the ballast. The pins can be a piata. A forked tool helps but it can be done with a screwdriver. When reinstalling, you have to remember to pull the center pin out a little from the outer shell, push in the outer shell and then the center pin. That is just the way I did it. Removing the headight assembly may be easier.

 

lets assume the liner is out. is it easy to then change the ts light? 1

now lets assume all the pins are broken. can the liner be replaced?,,,screwed in?? 2

can we buy new pins? 3

pics of pins? 4

 

You can cram your hand up in there, (say fender liner) or
I found some at NAPA that are Balkamp 655-2388. They are the short ones that can be used where there is only one layer of plastic. I later found some longer ones at a Crow-Burlingame "Car Color" store which is the auto body division. They are AutoBody Master PM48782. These are probably the best in most places unless you find they are too long in some areas and will not pull the layers up tight. They have two slots in the head of the insert so if after you push down the locking button if you need to remove it they have some special pliers that will pull it up. Even with these you usually destroy them getting them out. The old school method is a flat blade screw driver, needle nose and side cutters. They will wear your thumb out putting them in. I used a dead blow plastic hammer on the ones I could get to. They package says they are for a Chrysler but my H3 doesn't care.
Here is a shot of my weapons of choice. Most will get mangled or break. There are also two bolts on the front fender liner.

 

alright,now i have no fear,,,i have all those weapons. btw now i remember rooting around in a gm dealers bins years ago for pins for ?another car when i had fords! they gave me a handfull!

 

Thanks guys.. actually nothing to it.. very simple.. (6) 10 mm bolts to remove the grille and (2) 7 mm self tapping screws.. then (3)10 mm bolts on each headlight housing. (3) 7mm to remove turn signal housing. I didnt even have to unplug lights to get to any bolts. i will attach pictures with the switch back lights. I also have 5k HID lights for headlights from kbcarstuff.com and 3k HID for fog lights. i have clear side markers and white led bulbs on the way.. im also doing blue led floor lights and white led dome and cargo lights..