No problem, been there done that.

It took several switches between 4HI Lock to 4low lock to neutral then to 4HI for mine to get it right. Haven't heardhad an issue since.

 

I've Googled until Google told me to **** off about this driving me insane issue that I'm having a bit^h of a time diagnoising with my mechanic.

Real simple when I turn left or right ONLY at very low speeds 12mph or lower it feels like my brakes are pushed in and the tires locks up when I try to turn and it makes the most scary God awful grinding/bellowing like whale /sink shipping sound I've ever heard by a vehicle. Has the same thing if the wheels are turned and I backup at low speeds.

ZERO issues driving straight frontwards or backwards at any speed or turning in either direction going over 12 mph. ZERO check engine lights or codes coming up. Power steering, front and rear diff fluids were just topped off.

Power steering pump is fine and there is no sound at all turning the steering wheel, the only sound when turning is the grinding noise when turning sharply at low speeds and sharp angles.

OEM Front brake rotors and ceremic brakes pads we're installed 9 months ago. Tires were balanced/rotated 6 months ago and I had this problem back then as well.

Tire shop verified my tires aren't rubbing when turning or at any time. Alignment done a year ago and car drives straighter then an arrow.

Inspected by three different mechanics and axles, boots, wheel hub assembly, upper and lower ball joints, rack n'pinion, and inner and outer tie rods all LOOK fine to them from a visual inspection and no leaks.

We read some TCB and forum posts, so we installed a OEM lower steering shaft part#25900714 to weeks ago and that didn't do anything to fix the problem.

Tomorrow (Saturday) we're going to be installing a OEM Steering Column Intermediate Shaft/Gear Coupling Steering Shaft part#19256702 and a new OEM metal shift fork part#19180438.

I've read these things below on the forum, so my question is in what sequence should we test and fix things? Install intermediate steering shaft, then do the hi/low testing and then install shift fork?

I had this problem with my 2006 H3 that many experienced: the refusal of the car to turn even 90 degrees at SLOW speeds. This forum helped me see that it was the shift fork in the transfer case issue and it worked perfect for 2 1/2 years.

2 days ago, it decided to revert to its old ways and now I'm stuck again without the ability to maneuver in parking lots or make u-turns. How many times does one have to replace the shift fork?

Ok so this is bizarre- I definitely have tried driving forwards and backwards and trying to shift by pressing the buttons. Then yesterday, I just pressed the 4 hi lock and then 4 hi one time....and suddenly the hummer is out of 4 hi lock!!! (It has been stuck there for months and I really did try all the tricks before seeking help).... I guess I can cancel my apt.....rides like a dream again.

In 4hi lock you would notice substantial binding/tire skipping when turning on pavement. Go to a parking lot, shift to 4Hi Lock & drive forward a short distance. Stop, shift to 4Hi and drive backwards a short distance, see if the condition continues.On occasion, any T Case can get stuck in Hi Lock because of pent up Torque not allowing the lock to disengage. Driving backwards and turning back and forth can unwind that stuck condition.

You may have a boogered CV (half shaft) on one side.
Did you check the boots to see if there are any cuts or cracks in them? Any grease trails on the underside near the half shafts?

Sounds like the tcase. The Tcase actuator actually. Try shifting from 4hi lock to 4hi several times then low lock and back to 4hi unlocked. Drive in reverse 10-15 feet. Sometimes the actuator can get stuck if the drive shaft to the front is out for a while.

 

Shift fork.

 

It was the 4HI button that was locked up, once we clicked on first button and went in reverse the major issue is all gone. Still going to install a new aluminum shift fork tomorrow to be on the safe side.