ZZ

I bought the PermaCool Model that you used. I'm a little nervous about the installation. Could you post a few pics on how you routed the trans lines and where you mounted the filter?

Since I use my 3 to tow every once in a while, I'm excited about doing this mod. Any assistance you can provide is much appreciated.

Thanks

SaRGUY

 

I'll take some pics soon and get back with you. In short, I removed the skid plate that is under the radiator, and found a mounting location on the main cross beam that is there. I placed it sideways, on the backside of that crossbeam.

I looked at the instructions and they made my head explode. The picture shows the filter to be placed before the radiator and the text is the opposite (I may have the details backwards here, but the instructions are confusing). I convinced myself that it did not matter that much, and I placed the filter before the radiator (pressure side).

I cut the lines and used the hose clamps and hose that they provided. The kit says that they used high pressure hose so I'm not worried about that, but I do wonder about how reliable a hose clamp is in terms of being able to handle the pressure of the transmission system.

I ended up adding a secondary trans cooler which diverts transmission fluid from the filter. It connects at the base of the new trans filter and is easy to install once you have the filter installed. However, as it is now, I have the cooler also on the pressure side of the stock trans cooler. The stock trans cooler does cool the fluid, but it also heats it since the engine radiator fluid is right next to it. With a thermostat of 195 deg F, the transmission is only going to cool so much. I think the added coolr would be more useful if it was placed on the return side. I am going to cut the other line and move it there at some point.

I think it would be best to go trans pressure line -> Stock cooler -> trans return line -> added filter / added trans cooler -> trans return line back to transmission.

Compression fittings make me nervous since they always seem to leak a little, so I was also considering sticking with the hose clamps, but using 2 of them and using a brake flare tool to flare the ends (so that the clamps have a bump helping them out).

Looking back at the post, it wasn't that short.

Dale

 

seems to me that if you're going through all that trouble you should remove the trans fluid system from the radiator entirely to avoid the eventual failure of the stock radiator which will take out the tranny and fubar the motor, too.

 

I've seen only one person who stated that the trans cooler went bad. If it starts to become a trend instead of an isolated case, then I'll consider it.

 

Dale

Thanks so much for the write up. Looking forward to some pics and I'm feeling a little more confident about doing this surgery. If you could also show a pic of where you chose to mount the gage, that would be a help too. I have added some radios to my rig and there seems to be no room for a gage that should be visible to the driver. Thanks again

SarGuy

 

Hey Dale

Just checking in to see if you can post a pic or two of your filter install. You're right, this instructions that came with the unit seem contradictory.

TIA

SaR

 

Here are some pics. I cut the transmission line right above the filter. I would make sure that you flare the end of the tubing so that the hose can not pull off. I was told that the modern transmission are at very high pressures and as such, you need to use transmission hose and not regular heater hose. The other issue is when you consider the relatively low PSI pressures seen in a radiator use radiator hose clamps - the same clamps that you have to use on the transmission. It kinda made me nervous using a radiator hose clamp for transmission pressures. As a result, I flared the ends a little and also used 2 hose clamps. I only flared it a little, and filed it smooth so that I didn't cut the hose from the inside out. I also cut into the system on the suction side (return side). I actually cut both the pressure side and the return side but realized my error and just reconnected the pressure side with a short piece of transmission hose. If you look closely in the third pic, you can see the repair.

Here is the cooler with the grill removed. (passenger side of radiator)


Here is the filter.


Here is a closeup of the filter but I'm not sure how much you can see. The top fitting of the filter goes up and left into the tube that goes to the radiator (I cut into the passenger side transmission tube). When connecting the hose, disconnect it from the radiator so that you can take out out and connect the hose. It is too hard to do it when everything is tucked up in there.


Here is the temp gauge and brake controller.


Temp gauge of temp gauge.

 

Well I did some towing recently. I had to tow about #4000 lbs. On level roads it was clearly loaded, but fine. However, at one point I went up a 6% grade for 5 miles. I thought I was going to kill it. I was very careful to not push as much as possible, but it was hopeless.

I sold it.

Bought a GMC Yukon.

I'm really going to miss the H3 (except when towing).

Dale

 

H2 needs transmission fluid changed and the torque converter flushed out,
or a transmission flush. I have been calling around here in baton rouge
and no one seems to do the transmission flush. Even the hummer dealer
doesn't do it.

so, am wondering why? I don't like mixing the old fluids in the torque with
the new, so what is the best advice on doing the transmission fluid
and torque.?

I would appreciate.

 

We have read on this and other forums about flushing and many people claim it is not good for the tr. Don't know all the reasons.
Someone asked about or wondered why you could'nt drop the pan and drain, then run the engine for a few minutes. You would think that would dump most of it. Would that cause trouble?
I am not a transmission person so i don't know.