Change brake pads myself?
#1
Change brake pads myself?
My H3 is due fro some pads in the front - my wear sensors are squealing. I bought some pads from Autozone but it was just the pads. I saw somewhere there was a list of things that comes with the GM pads. I've changed pads before on my car but never on a truck. Should I just take it to the dealership who wants $240 per axle or can I do this myself. Any online tutorials would be helpful. TIA.
Matt
Matt
#2
RE: Change brake pads myself?
Unless it's Winter here in NJ, I always do disc brake maintenance myself because it's easy and the cost savings are so great (I enjoy doing it too!). While I have no specific hints for theH3 because ours is still on it's original pads, you may be better off returning the Autozone pads and going with an OEM or premium set of pads and a new set of rotors. (That way you can do the whole job non-stop in about 1 1/2 hours and have your take-off rotors resurfaced and ready to go for the next brake job).
For OEM and OEM premium pads and rotors at a favorable price, look for an AC Delco partsstore in your area or go internet. For good aftermarket alternatives, TireRack now has H3 brake parts that look very nice. In any event, use OEM or better parts for long service life.
Good Luck!
For OEM and OEM premium pads and rotors at a favorable price, look for an AC Delco partsstore in your area or go internet. For good aftermarket alternatives, TireRack now has H3 brake parts that look very nice. In any event, use OEM or better parts for long service life.
Good Luck!
#3
RE: Change brake pads myself?
I checked Autozone once, and they had the ceramic pads for about $40 a wheel. Those are way better then OEM. I don't know if they are too hard to replace, but I sure as hell wouldn't pay the dealership 240 for non ceramic.
#4
RE: Change brake pads myself?
Just in case anyone else asks this question, changing the pads on the front was a snap. The rears look fine so I did not touch them but I imagine the process is the same. In other cars, I've had to remove the caliper to replace the pads but the hummer allows you to drop the pads in from the rear once the pins are removed and the pistons compressed. It took about 30 minutes a side and I was in no hurry. If you have a jack, a c-clamp to compress the pistons, and a screwdriver I would say go for it. Three tips- Compress the pistons with a clamp with THE OLD PADS IN PLACE. They will give you a nice flat area to use between the piston and the clamp while compressing. 2.Use the screwdriver as a spacer between the pad and rotor to keep the opposite pistons from moving when compressing the other side. If you do not do this, the pressure will negate the work you have already done by "closing" the gap between the piston and the rotor. (ie. if you have already compressed the pistons closest to you, put the screwdriver in between the pad and rotor to maintain that space when compressing the far side. Otherwise, the action of compressing the far side will push the pistons you have already compressed back towards the rotor on the side closest to you. 3. Pay attention to the placement of the metal clip BEFORE removing it. It fits on the INSIDE of the pads. This is the only way it will flip up and into position when you are done.
Hope this helps someone as I didn't find much when I was looking.
Matt
Hope this helps someone as I didn't find much when I was looking.
Matt
#6
RE: Change brake pads myself?
ORIGINAL: Black_Impala
I checked Autozone once, and they had the ceramic pads for about $40 a wheel. Those are way better then OEM. I don't know if they are too hard to replace, but I sure as hell wouldn't pay the dealership 240 for non ceramic.
I checked Autozone once, and they had the ceramic pads for about $40 a wheel. Those are way better then OEM. I don't know if they are too hard to replace, but I sure as hell wouldn't pay the dealership 240 for non ceramic.
Would you give me the part number
I have a 2007 H3
Thanks
#8
I appreciate the info. I just got done replacing the front pads. I first I thought I'd have to remove the calipers but it looked like the pads could be removed with the calipers in place. I searched and found your post, thanks!
I'd like to add something that may help others. After I removed the pads, I didn't use a clamp at all, I just loosened up the bleeder valve with a 10mm wrench. I took a flat piece of metal(a screwdriver would work) and pryed the calipers apart as the fluid squirted out. After doing all 4 the pads slid right in and after assembly I bled the brakes, brake pedal is now firmer than before.
It took me about 1 1/2hrs to do the job and that's counting searching the web and rotating the tires(with impact wrench). Now that I know how its done it will take no time.
Thanks again!
I'd like to add something that may help others. After I removed the pads, I didn't use a clamp at all, I just loosened up the bleeder valve with a 10mm wrench. I took a flat piece of metal(a screwdriver would work) and pryed the calipers apart as the fluid squirted out. After doing all 4 the pads slid right in and after assembly I bled the brakes, brake pedal is now firmer than before.
It took me about 1 1/2hrs to do the job and that's counting searching the web and rotating the tires(with impact wrench). Now that I know how its done it will take no time.
Thanks again!
#10
I did the fronts about 2 months ago, needed to hammer on one of the rotors a bit to get it to break free but overall it's a piece of cake. Maybe 45 minutes total in my driveway on a nice day. I went with new GM pads and rotors from the wholesaler that used to sponser this site.