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3.5 bad head and the GM Goodwill warranty

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  #1  
Old 08-01-2015, 07:39 AM
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Unhappy 3.5 bad head and the GM Goodwill warranty

Looks like I have the dreaded bad head/valve seat issue with my 2006 H3 3.5L (94k miles).
I have had the CEL on and it pulls the P0301 code. Compression check indicates cylinder 1 is at 110lbs. The other are close to 195lbs.

My vins falls about in the middle of the range of those with this problem, last 6 are 147632.

Can anyone give me some suggestions, tips or guidance on how to get GM to pay for all or at least some of the repairs?
 
  #2  
Old 08-01-2015, 05:42 PM
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Take it to a Cadillac dealer first, not a Chevy dealer. Customer service blows at a Chevy dealership, a little better at a GM dealership and best at the Caddy place. Also take a copy of the TSB on the issue, I think it's listed under the Colorado.
 
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Old 08-14-2015, 08:43 PM
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That's interesting. Did you do a leak down test?
Also even though the compression # you share seems lower relative to the others displayed you still have sizable compression on that cylinder.
I could see if the # was say 20 or something really small but on an 06 with 94 that's respectable. I'd start looking at other possible causes too. Have you verified the wiring?
The C.O.P? Are you using oem spec spark plugs?
Have you tried honey motor oil?
Hey I'm not paid so it lol just some random crap tossed out there and as always your mileage may vary.

Chris
 
  #4  
Old 08-16-2015, 07:36 AM
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Default Thanks Happy Hummer,

Thanks Happy Hummer for the suggestions.

I did install new AC plugs at 75K. Orignially I noted the ragged idle, that's why I changed the plugs. When the CEL for P0301 first came on at about 85k miles I also had a P0300 code. I ran a double dose of tectron through the tank and the P0300 went away. I have a code reader.

I switched the #1 COP with the #2 COP, cleared the code by unhooking the battery and the P0301 code came back in about 30 miles. No signs of moisture on COP#1 or rust on the outside of sparkplug #1.

I put #1 COP back on cylinder #1 and #2 back on cylinder #2. Then swapped #1 spark plug with #2 spark plug, cleared the code. The P0301 code came back in about 30 miles. I inspected all the plugs and al look about the same as far as color.

I then put #1 plug back in cylinder #1 and 2 back in 2. So now all plugs and COPs are back where they were for since 75k miles and prior to the CEL cooming on.
Next I cleaned the Mass airflow sensor and the throttle body. Cleared the code and the code came back in 15 miles. The idle continues to be rough and ragged.

At this point I ran a compression check and noted that cylinder # 1 was 40% lower than the others. I did NOT do a leakdown test.

I bought the rig at 35k, use top tier fuel (Shell), run Mobil 1 oil and do no off road driving and don't even pull a trailer! I do have a 30 mile commute that is mostly 45-50 mph. And I have tried taking her on a couple of trips where the speed was 70 mph for 50 plus miles thinking that might clear her out a bit.

I'm ready to take on the dealer, but also not afraid to turn a wrench and try other suggestions.
 

Last edited by Clark; 08-16-2015 at 07:38 AM.
  #5  
Old 08-16-2015, 12:39 PM
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Wow Clark,
Def got it covered. I humbly step aside lol.
Have you looked at the doo hicky on the front side of the engine nearest the pulley assembly that a single plug goes into. It has screens in it that break loose and cause problems for the engine. I'm hoping some one will come along with the name.
Also could it be a sticking fuel injector?

Chris
 
  #6  
Old 08-19-2015, 08:32 AM
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Disconnecting the battery does NOT clear any code, it is still stored for 300 ignition cycles or until cleared by a scanner or tuner.

Have you checked the truck's history, was the head previously replaced?
 
  #7  
Old 08-20-2015, 06:30 PM
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What does this mean for a VIN
Used H3 Engine - (3.5L ,VIN 6, 8th digit)
 
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Old 08-21-2015, 08:48 AM
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Originally Posted by OhioHummerH3
What does this mean for a VIN
Used H3 Engine - (3.5L ,VIN 6, 8th digit)
Means you have an 06 with a 3.5L L52 I5 motor.
 
  #9  
Old 08-21-2015, 06:35 PM
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Angry and the dealer says...

Thanks Doc Olds and of course you are correct. Battery disconnect just makes the light go out.

The leak down test on cylinder #1 indicated an 80% loss.
I authorized 4 hours of labor (at $105 and hour) for diagnostic and guess what, the #1 valve seats are worn out. It took some prodding to get the service writer to admit it. He tried to tell me at first that they were bent valves.

It also needs a new timing chain as per the dealer, the current one is at the outside limits of acceptability.
Total Estimate to repair $4800.00

I tried to open a discussion about the known issues with valve seats and the extend warranty of the Canyons with like engines and was met with an aggressive and moderately hostile service writer. He told me flat out that I would not be getting any of this taken care of under warranty.

I asked for the service manager and was told it was too late, he would not support me in trying to get the head part of the bill covered either. I asked again to speak to him and was told he was not available and that he did not have a direct phone line. I was forced to leave a paper message. I asked by when I could expect a return call. The service writer told me he had no idea.

I called back later, got a different service advisor, and asked for the name and number of the local GM zone or regional rep and was told his name was "Ryan" and only the service manager knows his phone number. Guess I’ll find that out when (if) the service manager returns my call.

It appears that my local dealer has customer service challenges.

So I'll give the service manager until first thing Tuesday than I will call the dealership manger and then GM directly. I'd prefer to go through the proper steps but might not be able to. I am going to continue to push and be polite.

So my question for the forum is...I'm $500.00 deep in the repair right now, and looking at another $4300.00 to get a fresh head and timing chain on my 06 with 95k miles. They will give be a 12 month/12k mile warranty on the head.
Or do I pull the vehicle and get an independent shop to put a $3500.00 remanufacture 3.5L (bolt in replacement) engine in that has a 5 year, unlimited mile warranty?

Does anybody know the flat rate time to swap the 3.5l engine?
I figure that the tear down that is already done will take a small amount of time off the engine swap time and I would have to get the vehicle towed from the dealer to the independent.
But if the $$ are a push, I'm inclined to get the remanufactured engine.

Thoughts?
 
  #10  
Old 08-22-2015, 03:02 PM
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I did a very quick search and here was the 2 I found

89060449 - Chevrolet Performance REMANUFACTURED 3.5 LITER InLine-5, 214 C.I.D., GM

.http://www.crateenginedepot.com/35-L...50-P10620.aspx
 

Last edited by scoreh3; 08-22-2015 at 03:05 PM.
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