I did the cabin air filter mod today.
It's more of a pain in the @$$ than most people make it out to be (unless they have a tool that I'm not familiar with). It takes a little time w/ the dremel & more time to get into the right position since it's cramped.

I really have no clue why people say it's unnecessary. I took a drive afterwards to test it's effectivelyness. This is the first time that I couldn't smell exhaust fumes at some point, mind you, this was during rush hour. It made a world of difference. Worth every penny.

 

I will donit sometime in the future However I run the Ac in Recycled mode which is 99% I do not smell anything from outside .
How do you usually use the ac .... Miami wont allow to mox ac with outside air or you will burn inside the car

 

It's always in recycled mode / internal circulation.
Using that mode helps, but if I go buy an 18 wheeler or anything with a decent amount of exhaust, I smell it clear as day. I usually turn off the AC/Air until the vehicle is far enough away from me (pre filter). Same things goes with being in areas with trees that I'm allergic too. I did a test today with it & barely noticed the pollen after installing the filter. Usually, I feel terrible after the exact same route.

This wasn't an issue in my 2003.
What I want to know is, what would cause that because the filter has fixed about 98% of the problem.

 

Please advise how to replace clearance marker light on rear of roof on my H2. The manual is not clear. Thanks

 

The corners require the removal of a screw. The slide out after that
The three middle ones pop out. Look around the perimeter & you should see a small tab to push in.

I think that's how it works. I haven't done it in some time.

 

Done replacing the water pump and AC belt. Washed the mats and cleaned the wheels.

 

I pulled out the center console, cleaned everything underneath it. I noticed that all 3 (three) clips that normally lock it in place were busted off - completely. I laid a nice bead of clear silicone - very evenly - around the lip of the console and set it in place. I filled the cup holders with 45 cal. rounds and shotgun shells to hold everything down tight while the silicone set. When I took everything out - it held beautifully. I then put several drops of silicone on the rubber cup holder and put it back in place. Was tired of that rubber part coming out every time I pulled my drink out of the cup holder.

Then I removed the drivers side window switch plate, put black tape around the entire switch assembly (several layers high and thick) to stop the damn rattling. Before replacing the assembly back in it's spot, I laid a nice bead of the same clear silicone around the inner lip and set it back in place. It was nice and dry the next day and made a huge difference relative to reducing the rattles.

 

Oiled the tire carry arm.
Tons of rust poured out, but it swings much, much easier. 3-in-1 oil works well. Not sure if there's a better option out there.

 

I think there are some grease zerk fittings too right?

But I agree every little thing should be oiled up.

I used some amsoil spray grease on all the visible "joints" which is a white lithium grease.

This helped a lot. LOL. I don't think the previous owner ever did it.

 

There is a zerk on the tire carrier. I ended up going out & greasing that, along with some of the front end components that I hadn't gotten to before.


Now I've noticed that my serpentine belt is squeeling, but it's not loose. Might just be one of those that's loud. I might order a gator belt.