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Problem with limited edition h2 (rear view camera)

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  #1  
Old 06-17-2010, 01:10 PM
kaxtos's Avatar
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Default Problem with limited edition h2 (rear view camera)

I have an H2 2006 SUT limited edition. As i was driving the truck the ignition fuse was blown and that caused the trucks steering wheel to loose its hydraulics because its electrical and thats when the rear view camera slided open and stayed open even when i replaced the 40 amper FUSE on the car.

The camera works and slides open (pops out) when you put reverse on the car and displays the rear view. When you put D it automatically closes.

The system looks like this:

http://www.hummerguy.net/wp-content/...meraMirror.jpg

The display is now open and does not display anything, it seems that there is no video feed ..

Any suggestions ?

I have checked for fuses for the rear view camera but i did not find anything
 
  #2  
Old 06-17-2010, 10:30 PM
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Just out of curiosity, did you check your backup lights to see if they were still working?

If I remember correctly, the backup camera is on the same circuit as the backup lamps. If the backup lamps aren't working that could mean that the backup lamp's fuse may have also blown.

When I've installed aftermarket backup cameras, depending on the model, some of them were actually powered directly from one of the tail lamp's backup lamp wires.

You might also try removing the same 40 amp fuse again and reinstalling it. There is a chance that it will reset itself.

And lastly, does your Hummer have any aftermarket products installed? I ask because fuses generally don't blow without a good reason.

On some aftermarket installs, the installer will tap into the actual ignition wire at the steering column. Usually that's OK unless the aftermarket product is drawing more power than that skinny little wire was made to provide.

That may induce a blown fuse. On the other hand this just may be one of those unexplainable isolated incidents that happen now and then. Could have been something as simple as a bad fuse.

Upholstryguy
 
  #3  
Old 06-18-2010, 04:54 AM
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I have aftermarket products installed on my car: I have a kenwood dnx 7140 which i installed an adaptor behind the wheel so i could change tracks from the steering wheel. I have another problem with my radio now because i removed the positive pole from the battery so that the immobiliser would reset ( which i thought was the problem causing my camera to remain open and not show anything) my kenwood radio needs a security code which i do not have.

I also have 2 - 500 watt JL Audio amplifiers to power up a single sub.

I do not know if any of this caused the damage but when we installed the system we did not tap into the actual ignition wire.

i could take pictures of the rear view camera later on and post.

I am at work now and as soon as i go back i will check the backup lights.
 
  #4  
Old 06-18-2010, 06:59 AM
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hi thanks for your help but nothing seems to be making any sense to me now that the Reverse lights are OK....

Something must have happenned to the camera ,.

Are there an fuses for the rear view camera ?
 
  #5  
Old 06-18-2010, 01:06 PM
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Hi again kaxtos:

At this point I can only tell you what I would be inclined to do under these circumstances.

It's been my experience that when a Hummer has an OEM Backup camera issue you will generally get a warning display stating something like, "SERVICE BACKUP CAMERA." Or something like that.

My reply to your inquiry is based on my having access to other Hummers as a comparison.

To determine if the Backup camera or monitor had gone bad I would:

(1) First remove the Rear View mirror/monitor from the windshield and plug it into a Hummer with the same feature. If it still doesn't work it will confirm the monitor has gone bad. I know that not everyone has access to other Hummers for testing purposes; I'm just telling you how I'd go about troubleshooting.

(2) While I had the Mirror/Monitor removed I would use my test light to see if I was getting Power to the Monitor when vehicle is put into reverse gear. This is done by touching your test light probe to all the little slots in the connector that goes into the back of the mirror. There should be at least one of those small slots indicating on/off on your test light when you shift in and out of reverse.

(3) With the same test light I would crawl under the rear of the vehicle as close as possible to the camera itself and put my test light probe on the power wire leading to the camera. I'd be checking to see if the camera is receiving power.

(4) As far as there being fuses specifically for the backup camera; I can't remember if there are or not. If you haven't already done so; check the underside of the fuse cover that's under the hood of your hummer. There is a detailed list of names of circuits that each fuse is there to control. There may be one there that lists the backup camera but, I just don't remember. I'm thinking that the backup camera is bundled into the 40 amp fuse that initially caused your symptoms.

While I was under the hood I might be inclined to check ever fuse to see if one of the others hadn't been blown. The ignition wire I mentioned previously isn't the only ignition circuit in the vehicle. It's quite possible that one of the other fuses was the culprit.

There is also another fuse box under the dash on the driver side with the same list/names under the cover as well.

Now I'm getting to the point where I'm becoming a hypocrite. When I was installing aftermarket products. I would absolutely hate it when our GM service techs would bring me a car who's problems they couldn't diagnose.

The reason they'd bring it to me is because it had an aftermarket gizmo of some type installed and they would automatically assume that was the cause.

8 time out of 10 the cause would be something they had missed when they were doing their diagnosis.

If, in fact one of the components in your backup camera system hasn't gone bad, (monitor or the camera itself) I would lean toward one of your aftermarket electronics components possibly causing your symptoms but, the fact that I'm not there and checking all these things for myself makes it's nearly impossible to make that determination.

I forgot to mention; in step (1) I might try to manually push the monitor back into its closed position; not all the way. I'd use just enough pressure to see if maybe it didn't get snagged internally somehow.

From your description, the backup camera system/circuit doesn't seem to be getting the electrical power to bring it back to the closed position or to display the image being fed by your camera. (something you had already concluded)

I hope I didn't just add to your frustration rather than just give possible trouble shooting tips. Trying to explain something like this in writing always makes it seem alot more complicated than it actually is.

Upholstryguy
 
  #6  
Old 07-09-2010, 04:46 AM
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Default Second problem on my H2

Hi
Thank you very much for your time and effort to reply to my enquiry. I am now facing a more severe problem. The cars ignition fuse has blown for a second time as i was driving for not apparent reason. (1 week after the first incident)

This time i changed the 40 amp fuse with another one aqnd still when i turn the ignition ON the fuse blows leaving my car immobilised. I do not know where the problem is and why it is doing this. It is not the aftermarket stuff since i disassembled everything.

Do you have any insights to this problem ?
 
  #7  
Old 07-09-2010, 10:37 AM
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Originally Posted by kaxtos
Hi
Thank you very much for your time and effort to reply to my enquiry. I am now facing a more severe problem. The cars ignition fuse has blown for a second time as i was driving for not apparent reason. (1 week after the first incident)

This time i changed the 40 amp fuse with another one aqnd still when i turn the ignition ON the fuse blows leaving my car immobilised. I do not know where the problem is and why it is doing this. It is not the aftermarket stuff since i disassembled everything.

Do you have any insights to this problem ?
I don't know where the problem is but I can tell you why: You have a short somewhere. I would start by looking for a frayed wire that is grounding out.
 
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