I've been having electrical problems which i assumed to be caused by water leaks , the clock dials and dash lights would go off for a while then come back on a while later without me doing anything . But having cured all the leaks i can find it was still happening .

I thought yikes a short in the wiring could be anywhere !

But then i started having problems with the key , the engine starts and stops every time no problem when i turn the key but sometimes i had to fiddle around to turn the last notch that turns off electrics . As it was getting worse i lubricated the ignition barrel with graphite powder but it did no good so searching the web for tips i found and tried pushing the key in and tapping it in a bit further with a screwdriver handle .

Now i can't turn electrics off at all with the key but as the dash lights and dials died at the same time and haven't come back on at least i have accidentally found the source of the electrical problem .

So now i need a new ignition barrel .

The previous owner obviously knew there was a problem behind the steering wheel because the screws holding the plastic in place are ruined and i can't get them out .

So i think the steering wheel will have to come off and i would be grateful if anyone can provide a guide for dummies ? I've removed the steering wheel on other trucks with air bags but never a steering wheel that has so many buttons as well .

Also i am wondering if there is anything else i should order while buying the barrel , i watched a vid of someone changing the barrel of a H1 and he also replaced what he called an ignition switch . Is the H2 the same because if so it seems to me the switch is most likely where the electrical fault is regardless of the barrel being worn .

Please note i am in the UK so the parts will cost me 3 times what they cost in America and post will take at least 3 weeks so so getting it right the first time is important .

I would appreciate any help offered .

 

Just found out you guys call the ignition barrel an ignition lock cylinder !

 

Changing the lock cylinder is quite easy. First you are going to have to drill the heads off those messed up screws on the bottom cover. Then remove the covers and try getting vice grips on the remaining screw stud.

Now you will need a small screwdriver or punch. There is a hole in the top of the lock cylinder. This is where you stick your punch. First though stick the key in the cylinder and turn it to the start position but don't start it. Would also be a good idea to remove your battery cables. Now stick the punch in the hole and release the lock holding the cylinder. With a little fiddling it should pop right out.

I wouldn't pull the steering wheel. It took about fifteen minutes to do on my wife's yukon. Getting really good at it as they try to steal it about every other month.

 

Thanks Madmayo but after all the leaks a knackered lock cylinder and ignition switch on a truck that has only just covered 30,000 miles the Hummer lost its appeal and got sold .

Shame really its a phenomenal truck underneath but the build quality of the finished trim is the poorest i've ever encountered .

I will stick with my Landcruiser , it's 17 years old with 110,000 on the clock and while i bought graphite powder hoping to free up the Hummers cylinder i gave the Cruisers cylinder a squirt too .

The pro powder lubricant did nothing for the Hummer but the cylinder on my Cruiser is still so tight i struggled to get the key in .