Going to install the H1 wheels & tires..
#11
16.5's are a pain in the *** if your using them for offroading. without the ctis system on the H1 if you run them low and the bead falls off the rim you will not be able to reinflate your tires with your stock compressor. you will need a HI-Pressure system to be able to do that.
16.5" wheels do not have a "locking" bead like your 17" wheels do. the lock portion is just a hump on the hoop of your wheel on each side near the bead that keeps the tire located near the bead when it is flat.
Also "Kevlar" is a woven aramide fiber. It was initially developed by Michelin for use in their B.F.Goodrich tires. they have used woven aramide in their sidewalls since the mid 70's. Dupont realized it was "bulletproof" when woven into a vest and patented the term Kevlar. Goodyear pays Dupont a royalty to use the "Kevlar" in their sidewalls.
The tires are not bulletproof or any stronger than any b.f.goodrich mud terrain or all terrain that you can buy.
16.5" wheels do not have a "locking" bead like your 17" wheels do. the lock portion is just a hump on the hoop of your wheel on each side near the bead that keeps the tire located near the bead when it is flat.
Also "Kevlar" is a woven aramide fiber. It was initially developed by Michelin for use in their B.F.Goodrich tires. they have used woven aramide in their sidewalls since the mid 70's. Dupont realized it was "bulletproof" when woven into a vest and patented the term Kevlar. Goodyear pays Dupont a royalty to use the "Kevlar" in their sidewalls.
The tires are not bulletproof or any stronger than any b.f.goodrich mud terrain or all terrain that you can buy.
1. The mil spec double bead lock steel rims are infinitely stronger then any production or mall crawler production rim be it 16" - 16.5"-17" etc.
2. I am not going to run them that low on air they will ever come off the bead, that’s why they are called "Baja's I am smart enough (well sometimes…add a few bears and the scenario will go down hill quickly ) not to take them heavy mudding or rock crawling that would require almost totally deflation for additional traction. Why cant the rubber run flat insert be kept in them for street use that would provide a limited run flat option. (think its 50 miles)
3. Mil Spec H1 wheels /tires whether the Good Years or BFGoodrich offer be huge improvement on any H2 that will see occasional off road use. As you are aware you can purchase 4-mounted rims & tires ($650-$700) for what you would pay for just 2 OEM BFGoodrich All-Terrains ($300 ea + mounting balancing)
That’s a smoking deal that offsets a few negatives that aren't really a negative to me.
#12
If you keep the run flats in the wheels you're looking at 172 pounds per wheel. With spacers take it to 175 pounds total per wheel. Sure some people have run them but there has been a concern of premature wear on suspension components from the ridiculous weight of the things.
I totally hear ya from the cost standpoint. I've been looking at new wheels for my rig and they're anywhere from $1,900-$2,200 brand new (rims/tires). I constantly find myself going back to the military wheels........I can't make up my mind.
I totally hear ya from the cost standpoint. I've been looking at new wheels for my rig and they're anywhere from $1,900-$2,200 brand new (rims/tires). I constantly find myself going back to the military wheels........I can't make up my mind.
#14
If you keep the run flats in the wheels you're looking at 172 pounds per wheel. With spacers take it to 175 pounds total per wheel. Sure some people have run them but there has been a concern of premature wear on suspension components from the ridiculous weight of the things.
I totally hear ya from the cost standpoint. I've been looking at new wheels for my rig and they're anywhere from $1,900-$2,200 brand new (rims/tires). I constantly find myself going back to the military wheels........I can't make up my mind.
I totally hear ya from the cost standpoint. I've been looking at new wheels for my rig and they're anywhere from $1,900-$2,200 brand new (rims/tires). I constantly find myself going back to the military wheels........I can't make up my mind.
I have had many lifted jeeps trucks etc. I have never bought into the theory that an extra 50 lbs. Will accelerate wear on a good study truck. I can see it more a potential issue on parts subject to the extra rotational mass (bearings) or being an issue on trucks built by chop sticks
My thoughts are you could spend 4k on a wheels and tires and still twice the amount of thumbs up with the milspec H1 wheels /tires..
#15
What about these inserts? They are PVC and supposedly very light weight. But at $200/set you are just adding and adding to the cost of rims/tires.
The set I would like is $1100 shipped. 24bolt with MT/R's.
Plus $200 inserts. Plus say $200-$300 for "good" spacers.
Thats $1400 total. With possibly the hassle of leaks, etc.
For another $500ish you could get aftermarkets rims/tires with less worry.
Not trying to talk you out of it, or say you are wrong, but this was my line of thinking when I started looking at H1 rims/tires.
Forgot the link:
http://www.trailworthyfab.com/Hummer...VC-Insert.html
The set I would like is $1100 shipped. 24bolt with MT/R's.
Plus $200 inserts. Plus say $200-$300 for "good" spacers.
Thats $1400 total. With possibly the hassle of leaks, etc.
For another $500ish you could get aftermarkets rims/tires with less worry.
Not trying to talk you out of it, or say you are wrong, but this was my line of thinking when I started looking at H1 rims/tires.
Forgot the link:
http://www.trailworthyfab.com/Hummer...VC-Insert.html
#16
And if you are dead set on just the military tires, there are aftermarket 16.5, 8 lug rims. The Pro Comps are a popular name I seen thrown around a lot. They can be had for around $100ish or so.
No spacers or inserts needed.
No spacers or inserts needed.
#17
That is another option I've been looking at. Grab an aftermarket 16.5" wheel with a good backspace (4.5") then you can use those surplus tires all day long.
#19
I've been reading up on 16.5" wheels. Apparently the bead shelf is much smaller than standard size wheels which makes them a little unsafe. However, many people run then without issue.
The surplus tires are so cheap and that's what peaks my interest. My other concern is what if the surplus tires run dry? Have you guys looked at the cost of 16.5 tires, the price is ridiculous high!
The surplus tires are so cheap and that's what peaks my interest. My other concern is what if the surplus tires run dry? Have you guys looked at the cost of 16.5 tires, the price is ridiculous high!
#20
I've been reading up on 16.5" wheels. Apparently the bead shelf is much smaller than standard size wheels which makes them a little unsafe. However, many people run then without issue.
The surplus tires are so cheap and that's what peaks my interest. My other concern is what if the surplus tires run dry? Have you guys looked at the cost of 16.5 tires, the price is ridiculous high!
The surplus tires are so cheap and that's what peaks my interest. My other concern is what if the surplus tires run dry? Have you guys looked at the cost of 16.5 tires, the price is ridiculous high!