Following and exhaustive search I am turning to you all for help. Getting ready to tow in the near future so I pulled out the 12V tester to make sure I am good-to-go. The only 12V I have on any of the pins is the Left Signal. Nothing else. I pulled the connector out of the back of the plug assembly and found the same thing.

In the engine compartment fuse box, Stud #2 has a 30A in it...but Stud #1 just has what appears to be a red "placeholder". Previous owner has brake controller, plugged into the correct location under dash. I tried unplugging that...same findings.

Now...I am going out today to triple check my findings, but I did all of this 4-5 times yesterday, somewhat amazed that I have a Left signal and nothing else.

Thanks for any pointers....I'll be digging into the manual DVD I bought from Marty as soon as I post this.

 

if your rt turn and running lights arent working its a fuse issue. the fuse is either in the fuse panel under the hood or the fuse box on driver side dash. it will be labeled "trl rt turn" and the running lights is "trl prks". that should fix your light issues. the blue wire which is your trailer brake wire wont have any power till you press the brake. hope this help.

 

@thehitchmaster....I will double check the brake wire after work today...and I'm going out now to get the manual and find those fuses. Thank you so much!! Do you know if there should be an actual fues on Stud #1 (under hood fuse box)? Right now there is just a plastic placeholder...no connections are being made (though I did verify there is 12VDC on one of the spades).

You might be due some adult beverages very soon!!!

 

OK...generally speaking I like to consider myself a pretty handy kind of guy. I'm pretty logical and methodical when I troubleshoot.....

But to miss something this obvious is, well, just plain wrong! LOL I'm at work, so I don't have loads of time...but quickly I checked the 10A fuse in driver side dash fuse box...it was blown. I will now spend the evening going back through each and every fuse box.

@thehitchmaster....I used to run the website for the Viper Club of America (years ago) and I am totally famiiar with how useful these sites are. I also believe that we have to take care of each other...with tech tips, deals, etc. PM me your mailing details please...and let me know if you frequent WaWa, Starbucks, etc???

 

I hope that the info that i gave you fixed your problems. I am glad to help. I am a member of many forums. various hobbies and things. I just get a good feeling when I can help. Cause many times I am the one needing the help. As for the #1 stud I do believe you have to have a 30Amp fuse in that slot for your 12v @ the 7pin. put a fuse in their and check your 7pin plug. sometimes GM didnt even run the wire to the stud. If thats the case you have to remove the plastic box surrounding the fuse panel in the engine comp, and the wire is wrapped up with tape.

 

Yes, the info was just enough to spark a little common sense and helped me find the blown 10A fuse. I now have brake and signal lights at the plug. I'm thinking adding the 30A fuse to stud #1 will give me 12VDC at the plug and brakes. Don't really need more than the signal/brakes for now though. Thanks!

 

Just a followup, for future searches....there is also a 15A fuse in the engine compartment fuse block for the trailer running lights. Found a blown 20A in mine (and the 10A for the R signal and parking was blown in the driver side dash). Seems odd to have the trailer fuses split between the boxes...but at least I have all the lights back.

My 7-pin connector was kinda mangled when I bought the Hummer, so I would imagine the previous owners weren't towing people and might have done something weird. I plan to replace that whole assembly now that I've run down the 12VDC issues (with the help of HummerForums.

 

It hasnt always been in seperate comps. At one point they were all in the fuse center under the hood. Im not sure what year they split them up on gm trucks. I didnt wanna confuse ya.