So instead of tracing wires and testing each do you know if there's a aftermarket wire harness i could just add in or make custom?

 

I doubt harness is available I think it runs into main body harness but not sure. A good GM electrical tech can build one. We have all the connector pins and pin grips to fit connectors then its just a matter of running the wires. Typically its the pin grips(female pins) that loosen up and especially when colder have more clearance causing resistance change in circuits. You could apply dielectric grease to all terminals and that may help or even correct the issue especially if there is fretting corrosion on terminals from vibrations.

 

I wouldn't trust the O' Reilly part unless it was a reboxed Delco part.

 

I have a background in electronics so i'm comfortable making a new harness.
I checked with the service manual and verified that all five wires do in fact go straight from the accelerator pedal sensor to the TAC module with no splices. thats good news because the wires disappear into the main harness and pop right out by the TAC.

I found GM female connectors for my wire gauge online and ill just run the five new wires using the factory clips, i don't have a fancy crimper for these style connectors so ill just have to tin them with solder. Also it looks like the factory wires are 20 gauge but i will be replacing with 18 just because i have a bunch already on hand.
Should have this done soon, ill report my findings when i know.

Thanks for all the help.

 

The GM connectors i ordered didn't fit the factory clips in the vehicle so i had to call the dealer and get part numbers for both the clips......I found the parts on amazon for half the cost of dealer pricing and the parts should arrive today.

 

So the factory clips i ordered came with wires intact with about 10 inches lead so it was easy to just run 6 new wires from 18 gauge primary wire and solder the connections then shrink tube.

I finished the harness, taped up my extra wire and started the vehicle. Within 10 seconds i received the reduced engine power message! turned off the truck waited a minute and restarted.....about 10-15 more seconds i received the message again....shut down the truck for another couple mins.

I started the hummer up again and the message was gone so i took it too the local gas station a mile away at about 45 mph turned around came back and got home without any problem....so what the hell do i need to do next? should i have cleared the current engine fault before starting back up? should i clear it now?

UPDATE.....i just drove it a few miles and the the check engine light just turned off by itself, that's good.

 

I would clear them with a scanner and then drive it. Hopefully the fix you did will end your nightmare.

 

Well like i said it just cleared itself but.....i did notice a little bit of the bouncing tachometer around 1500 rpm, i wonder if its related to the torque converter at all?

 

UPDATE!!

New strange happenings this week. I noticed the hummer did not start as quickly as usual so i checked voltage of battery while idling (14.4), and not running (11.9), its pretty clear the alternator is good and the battery is not holding a charge so add that to the list of things to replace........but when i closed the hood i noticed the rpms jump from normal to about 900 rpm.....just from closing the hood!! i went in and jiggled the gas pedal from side to side and pulled it upwards and the idle would vary a little just from that.
So i assumed that the spring holding the pedal is a little stretched or bent so i just ordered a GM replacement pedal with GM sensor.

Does anyone think the battery voltage and pedal inconsistancy's could throw the trouble code im getting?

 

I doubt the battery would but the pedal assy, is a wise purchase. Closing the hood and creating difference in the way it ran would lead me to preform another wiggle test on the underhood wiring.