Bilstein Cognitos made for the H3, only one size Bilstein Hummer H3 Leveling Front Shock - F4-BE5-C153- - Suspension

 

kool what a great tutorial I just bought an 07 and i was wondering how I wud lift the front end thank you very much

 

Since this is the case does anyone know the new "specs" (camber specificaly) after raising the front end to 23.5" ? The reason I ask is I'm taking mine in for an alignment at Kal Tire and don't want them to just drop it again "saying that's the way it's supposed to be and so we set to factory spec". I figure if I go in there and tell them I want it set to XYZ then I can save myself arguing/a headache. Thanks.

 

That link only takes you to the site. Not a direct link to the shock. What length is it? 1.5" over or 2" over?

 

Forget it. I seen. Also no edit function stinks.

 

Yea, Im tightening the bolt & its hard as hell. Is this suppose to be this hard? I,m at 22 3/4 not sure I can get that next inch. Any comments?

 

Use a bigger wrench. Actually, it's a stiff bolt so a longer wrench helps. As does PB Blaster on the bolt and jacking it up off the ground but it can still be stiff anyway.

 

So exactly what is it that stops downward suspension travel (droop) on the front of our H3s? Is it the full extension of the shock, or is there a physical stop in the suspension arms? How about the upper travel limit? Physical stop or shock bottoming out? On another site, it is claimed that there are physical stops, both upper and lower, although the tie rods and swaybar also play a part.

Here's why I ask; I keep hearing that after a torsion crank that the shocks should be replaced because the stock ones are too short (in fact, even Trail Duty claims that). ???? There is no logic to that. The upper range of suspension arm travel is fixed, so is the lower range. Cranking our torsions simply adjusts where the arms rest between those two extremes; it does not change either one. Suspension "travel" is not changed.

And even if the actual physical travel of the shock (both full extension and full compression) is the limiting factor (which would seem to be a bad design, but...), then cranking the torsions would again simply change the resting position, resulting in more up-travel and less down-travel before the limits are reached. I fail to see how suspension travel (and therefore the need for "longer" shocks) is changed by cranking the torsions.

So other than an improved ride, is there any validity to the claim that longer shocks are needed? Or am I missing something that's blatantly obvious to others?

 

You are 100% correct. Stock shocks are the travel limiters in our suspension, but only by about 1/2". However...I think that the rubber stops in the shocks also compress slightly so dynamic articulation is probably much closer to the mechanical stop limits. Adding a 1/2" nut (the Hunner nut trick) adds all the extra length that is needed.

 

So if that's the case, then the additional 1/2" would be desirable regardless of torsion position. Lifting the front end by cranking the torsions doesn't change suspension travel nor does it require longer shocks any more than the stock position. Thanks for the clarification.