when to switch to synthetic?

    I have already racked up 2500 miles in  3 weeks of ownership, for a total of 5k. When should I switch? I want this H3 to last as long as possible. It spends 99% of the time on the hwy with short dirt road trips to the rigs..thanks, Bill 

You can switch over when ever you want to start recieving superior service from your oil
 
 
 
 
 
Any time.........................do it now

i changed mine over on the second oil change. The dealer did my first at 2990 miles (I brought it in because my battery had a dead cell) they said lets go ahead and change the oil so I let'em go. It was a freebie anyway.

Second oilchange was last week, I was at 6500 miles and put in Penzoil Platinum Synthetic 5w30w. I don't know the best time to convert over but I didn't want to wait, the oil change was $63.00 out the door but I do have $13.00 coming back in a rebate so it was around $50.00 for the change. From everything I've read about using it in car engines has been very positive. My personal experience with AmSoil Synthetic Sabre two stroke oil has been excellent. I use it in my 2 stroke gas engine radio controlled helicopters. The motors still look brand new after dozens of gallons. After 50 hrs of flying time the plug and cylinder liner, piston and ring still look like new, the motor is very reliable and never runs hot.

I'm hoping these new synthetic oils are as good as they claim to be. I really wanted AMSoil oil and filter but I didn't have time to order it as I've still not talked to any other local distributors for AmSoil. Maybe it will help keep those I-5 gremlins at bay.

I have been using synthetic since the first oil change.  I go about 5000 miles between oil changes using the synthetic.  It's worth the extra money in the long run, start using it asap. 

I started using it after my first oil change as well.....


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As SOME of you, who have know me a while, know that I'm a NOOB at anything other than having a PRETTY TRUCK, so can someone tell me:
 
1) Why is syntheic oil better?
2) Is it ever TOO LATE to start using synthetic
3) What is the square root of an equilateral triangle if one side is 169?
 
Thanks,
Bling Master

quote:

ORIGINAL: HummBob

As SOME of you, who have know me a while, know that I'm a NOOB at anything other than having a PRETTY TRUCK, so can someone tell me:

1) Why is syntheic oil better?
2) Is it ever TOO LATE to start using synthetic
3) What is the square root of an equilateral triangle if one side is 169?

Thanks,
Bling Master

 
1) Better hot engine protection. Better cold start protection.  Lasts longer.
 
2)No
 
3) 

quote:

ORIGINAL: blackstangs281

quote:

ORIGINAL: HummBob

As SOME of you, who have know me a while, know that I'm a NOOB at anything other than having a PRETTY TRUCK, so can someone tell me:

1) Why is syntheic oil better?
2) Is it ever TOO LATE to start using synthetic
3) What is the square root of an equilateral triangle if one side is 169?

Thanks,
Bling Master

1) Better hot engine protection. Better cold start protection.  Lasts longer.

2)No

3) 

 
1)Lasts longer as in less Oil Changes Needed or Makes the ENGINE Last Longer?
2)So using "normal" oil didn't have any adverse effects?
3)

169 what?

quote:

ORIGINAL: HummBob

quote:

ORIGINAL: blackstangs281

quote:

ORIGINAL: HummBob

As SOME of you, who have know me a while, know that I'm a NOOB at anything other than having a PRETTY TRUCK, so can someone tell me:

1) Why is syntheic oil better?
2) Is it ever TOO LATE to start using synthetic
3) What is the square root of an equilateral triangle if one side is 169?

Thanks,
Bling Master

1) Better hot engine protection. Better cold start protection.  Lasts longer.

2)No

3) 

1)Lasts longer as in less Oil Changes Needed or Makes the ENGINE Last Longer?
2)So using "normal" oil didn't have any adverse effects?
3)

 
1)  you can go longer on a oil change if you want. ( although I still change mine at 3000. I just like having the added protection in case something happens like overheating or other breakage)   And yes, It can help the engine last longer ( less wear on cold start ups, and it does not break down like reg oil). In simple terms: it's slippier
 
2)  As long as it was changed often, it's fine. you just don't get the added protection.
 
3)
 
Seems the most used is Castrol or Mobil 1.  I use Mobil 1. Never let me down yet. Plus, test's have been done by NASA, and they use Mobil 1.  Don't know how much that meens because rain showers still prevent a shuttle launch.

Thanks Chris!!!! Synthetic it is from now on!!!!

quote:

ORIGINAL: HummBob

As SOME of you, who have know me a while, know that I'm a NOOB at anything other than having a PRETTY TRUCK, so can someone tell me:

1) Why is syntheic oil better?
2) Is it ever TOO LATE to start using synthetic
3) What is the square root of an equilateral triangle if one side is 169?

Thanks,
Bling Master

1/ don't ask just USE IT ! period

2/ in your particular case is certainly too late!but you can still try even in Winterpegg MIRACLES can Happen.

3/ 3876

.

quote:

ORIGINAL: JM

quote:

ORIGINAL: HummBob

As SOME of you, who have know me a while, know that I'm a NOOB at anything other than having a PRETTY TRUCK, so can someone tell me:

1) Why is syntheic oil better?
2) Is it ever TOO LATE to start using synthetic
3) What is the square root of an equilateral triangle if one side is 169?

Thanks,
Bling Master

1/ don't ask just USE IT ! period

2/ in your particular case is certainly too late!but you can still try even in Winterpegg MIRACLES can Happen.

3/ 3876

.

 
Yup, Jean is ON THE MEND!!!!!

 
Here is a link to a previous thread that had some interesting discussion on synthetic oil:
 
http://www.hummerforums.com/m_9832/tm.htm

quote:

ORIGINAL: Trayderjoe

 
Here is a link to a previous thread that had some interesting discussion on synthetic oil:

http://www.hummerforums.com/m_9832/tm.htm

 
Nice find Joe!!! Thanks!!

I did plagiarize this from something I wrote on another site...
 
Many of the additives used in modern dyno oils over the past few years are a lot better than used in the past; thus, the modern "Starburst" symbol dyno oil last longer and is more stable than oil used even five years ago. Unless the engine is of a race design, or has limited airflow to help cool it, dyno oil is all that is required. GM (and all other manufacturers) recommend the oils that they test the engines with during development.

Synthetic will not harm the engine, but in many cases, it is not necessary. Extreme hot conditions and extreme cold conditions will see some benefit, but then again, the GM oil life system, which monitors temps at startup and during engine run, will take this into consideration. Therefore, those who live in AZ will see their oil life percentage decrease faster than those living in MI during the summer. Same holds true to those up in Alaska. Those living in moderate temp areas, with four seasons, will also notice that during the summer their oil life percentage will not decrease as fast as during a cold winter.

You will also notice a difference with your driving habits. Change the oil and go cross country and your oil life percentage will drop slowly. Change your oil and make a hundred one-mile trips to Kroger a mile away, and your oil life percentage will decrease faster.

In addition, there are two primary type of synthetics; Group IV synthetics are made with PAOs, group III are highly refined dyno oil via a process called Hydro-cracking, that is labeled synthetic oil, and is legal to do so. (Mobil sued to have the name synthetic removed from Group III oils back in the late 90's and lost.) Hydro-cracking is less expensive than using PAOs. To be honest, the inroads in the development of Group III oil have made them almost as good as Group IV. There was supposed to be a Group III+ category, but not sure if it has been released.

Last tests I saw showed that only two oils were group IV:
Mobil 1
Amsoil ASL

All other major oils, advertised as synthetic were Group III:
Castrol
Shell
Pennzoil
Valvoline
Havoline
Quaker
Amsoil (Non ASL)

It costs a lot less to manufacture Group III synthetics, but as we all know, they charge about the same as Group IV.

Now, to add confusion, there is a Group V synthetic oil based on Esters, and is used by Redline. The only true benefit of Group V is that it's high heat capabilities are superior to Group III and Group IV. A normal car/truck engine will not benefit by the use of Esters, but it certainly won't hurt. Air cooled and Jet engines benefit greatly with a Group V oil.

Another type of oil that is the "blend." When you mix a synthetic with a dyno oil, the oil takes on the characteristics of the lowest group type used. Therefore, a blend oil is basically worthless. If you are considering a blend, you might as well save your money and go with a dyno or pay more and go with a synthetic.

Most important factor, is always use the recommended spec, or a spec that exceeds the spec for your engine. This is important on systems using oil life monitoring systems. The system algorithms are developed knowing the rate of decline of the oil approved with that spec. Using an oil without that spec would make the system inaccurate. So, the oil life indicator might indicate 50%, but the oil is really degraded to around 30%. Using an oil with a greater spec (synthetic), would also make the oil life monitoring system inaccurate, but won't harm the engine. With an oil that exceeds the spec, the oil life system may show a percentage of 50%, but the oil life is actually at around 70%.

Dennis posted some very good and useful information on how the quality of oil is measured.  He has me convinced enough to put Castrol in my H3 when I change it this month.  Based on his information I started doing some research and it turns out Castrol Syntec is one of the top oils for not having viscosity breakdown and retaining it's lubrication properties.  I'll see if I can find his post with the information.  It's definitely worth reading.
 
That, and there is about 23458584747 other threads about this

Thanks Mikey..here is the Amsoils research and they put them selfs on top and Castrol Syntec second..But this is a standard for the lubrication industry not just Amsoil.

http://www.synthetic-oil-online.com/amsoil_10w30_api_four_ball_wear_test.htm
 

One thing I've heard form several oil experts..is that once you switch to using Synthetics, you should never go back to conventional dino oils....I don't know if that is a bunch of Canadian goose crap...but I won't try and prove it wrong.

quote:

ORIGINAL: Dennis

One thing I've heard form several oil experts..is that once you switch to using Synthetics, you should never go back to conventional dino oils....I don't know if that is a bunch of Canadian goose crap...but I won't try and prove it wrong.

 
Sounds like my BACK YARD!!!