Sticky Accelerator Pedal/Sensor

The past few months I have had a problem with the Accelerator Pedal.

First off, I don't like, and never will like, throttle-by-wire. If I knew the H3 was throttle-by-wire, I MAY have not purchased it. BUT, that would be a dumb reason to give up a car :) (I think it's also called drive-by-wire)

Anyway, what happens is I let off of the gas pedal, and the engine is still revving at 2k rpm. I have a stick, and it happens when I hold down the clutch and let off of the gas while approaching a stop. Sometimes it stays that way for about 5 seconds after I am already stopped, or sometimes never stops unless I press the gas pedal down all the way. It doesnt happen that much, maybe once every few days, but it's enough to make me wonder if it happens to anybody else.

My theory is that the throttle sensor on the gas peddle is sending an inaccurate reading to the computer, maybe because it is dirty, or perhaps the AC is hitting it too much and is causing the metal contacts to contract to the point where they dont touch properly. I'm assuming it uses a variable resistance setup like most potentiometers out there.

Anybody have this problem with their 5-speed or automatic?

Hey Mike,

I've read that most all manual trannys are having this very same issue...I think it is something to do with programming, as the clutching action is part of this process..It is suppose to keep your engine from stalling if you clutch in while the A/C is on...But I've also heard that the dealer reprograms and settles the problem out...

Thanks for the info. I kinda figured it had to do with some compensation for the clutch. I know most manual's keep the engine speed up at a ration to match the coasting speed until the car comes to a stop, but this is crazy. They may have programed the computer again. I'll look at my receipt from yesterday and see if they did any firmware updates. I know they like to do those things in the background.

quote:

ORIGINAL: HummerGuy

The past few months I have had a problem with the Accelerator Pedal.

First off, I don't like, and never will like, throttle-by-wire. If I knew the H3 was throttle-by-wire, I MAY have not purchased it. BUT, that would be a dumb reason to give up a car :) (I think it's also called drive-by-wire)

Anyway, what happens is I let off of the gas pedal, and the engine is still revving at 2k rpm. I have a stick, and it happens when I hold down the clutch and let off of the gas while approaching a stop. Sometimes it stays that way for about 5 seconds after I am already stopped, or sometimes never stops unless I press the gas pedal down all the way. It doesnt happen that much, maybe once every few days, but it's enough to make me wonder if it happens to anybody else.

My theory is that the throttle sensor on the gas peddle is sending an inaccurate reading to the computer, maybe because it is dirty, or perhaps the AC is hitting it too much and is causing the metal contacts to contract to the point where they dont touch properly. I'm assuming it uses a variable resistance setup like most potentiometers out there.

Anybody have this problem with their 5-speed or automatic?

No problem with my auto.

The H3 uses dual redundant sensors for throttle position. If there is a disagreement between comanded throttle position and actual position -> Reduced Engine Power. The PCM programming can take care of this.

Thanks for the info. If there is a power cut though, why would the RPM's be revving so high at 2000 at a complete stop? Wouldn't it have the reverse effect?

I have had the Reduced Engine Power warning come on a few times, but that was because there was a short with some custom wiring I did for my laptop and GPS receiver which I found and repaired. After I fixed that, I never had the problem, or, at least the warning.

I wasn't clear. I was trying to say if the pedal sensors were f'd up you'd know it from the reduced engine power mode.

It sounds like this has been going on for a while. You can try an idle relearn. Basically, start up the H3 when cold and let it idle in neutral until it reaches normal temperature. Shut off the engine for a minute. Restart the engine and put the AC on and let idle for a few minutes (even letting the engine cool down and restart and put AC on would be better). This isn't the exact procedure, but it forces the PCM to learn the idle throttle position versus engine coolant temperature. I use this on my Z28 6-speed after the battery is disconnected for a while. I see a similar problem as you until I do this procedure.

OK I'll try that. Thank you for the tip. I'll try it out later and see if it does it again.