Oil Change - Page 2

LG~

It's funny that you asked me about Smokey ... I'm in the middle of trying to plan a surprise retirement/birthday party for my Dad. The hardest part of this [so far] is trying to remember the names and locate all the guys he used to run with. When I asked him about Smokey, it opened the door for me to say "Dad, this guy on the hummer bb wanted to know who else you knew, he was curious because maybe he knew them too". It was the only way I could think to get the names of those that I don't remember. Within a minute he piped out nearly 30 names ... so now I've got more guys to track down!!

I think I will pick up that book! I googled it and found where you can order it. Maybe I'll get two and get one for Dad too!

My rec is to do the first change at 1000, every then 5000 after unless you're on a lot of unpaved roads or a dusty environment. Synthetic oil is great stuff for some applications, but for most private vehicles, its just pointless expense. Engines just don't wear like they did before computer machining and QA; its common for abused engines in econoboxes to go 200K miles without significant internal wear. I do use syn oil in my Audi as insurance for its two turbos because it stands up to very high temps much better, but I know there's some there paranoia too. In a non-turbo engines there's really not much justification for it. The bearing loads, speeds, and temperature just don't call for it. It doesn't hurt, but its mostly a vanity expense like $40/can wax. Its probably better to invest the $$ on an oil analysis every change.

Syn oil gets cheaper if you go 10K between changes, but thats self-defeating because the dirt load is doubled and dirt is what eats engines. If I was planning to keep the H3 for 250K miles or if I did a lot of heavy trailer pulling, I might use syn oil. If I had a an aftermarket air filter, I think about syn oil too.

I'm gonna have to disagree with you somewhat...I change every 5000 if I'm using the Synthetic and when I was using dino based, it was every 3000 or 3 months...Period..I agree on the part about changing often to eliminate the dirt and contamination load from the internal combustion process inherent with all engines.

It is also a proven fact and I think Importkiller gave a great analogy once, that Synthetic is molecularly slicker than petrol based oils, hence the engine runs easier with less wear, ergo, better mileage and synthetic also leaves more of a protective film on all the metal surfaces to help protect from the extreme wear on cold start ups.

Castrol had a commercial out a while back (couple of years ago) that demonstrated a fill and drain with conventional oils vs. Castrol Syntec...They drained the engines, then started and ran them...The conventional oiled engine ran shortly before it seized up, while the Castrol Syntec engine continued to run without any signs of seizure.

Agree with ya 100% Dennis. Also an aftermarket filter filters BETTER than stock (K&N).

quote:

ORIGINAL: Dennis

I'm gonna have to disagree with you somewhat...I change every 5000 if I'm using the Synthetic and when I was using dino based, it was every 3000 or 3 months...Period..I agree on the part about changing often to eliminate the dirt and contamination load from the internal combustion process inherent with all engines.

It is also a proven fact and I think Importkiller gave a great analogy once, that Synthetic is molecularly slicker than petrol based oils, hence the engine runs easier with less wear, ergo, better mileage and synthetic also leaves more of a protective film on all the metal surfaces to help protect from the extreme wear on cold start ups.

Castrol had a commercial out a while back (couple of years ago) that demonstrated a fill and drain with conventional oils vs. Castrol Syntec...They drained the engines, then started and ran them...The conventional oiled engine ran shortly before it seized up, while the Castrol Syntec engine continued to run without any signs of seizure.

Not only is synthetic slicker, it doesn't breakdown as petroleum oil does. Synthetic oil is the only oil I have used since Mobil 1 came out in the late 70's (1977).

If you run your oil longer, just change the filter at the recommened change intervals and have an oil analysis done at the filter change to tell you when to change the oil. That way you remove the solid particulates from the oil, and get the full life out of your oil and wallet.

TigerLily, The books can be bought at Barnes and Nobles, or from SmokeyYunick.com. B&N is where I got mine.

I said that synthetic oil is great stuff. It is slicker, and it stands up to much higher heat. My position, though, is that those are non-issues for a typical private vehicle. Dino oil provides all the lubrication and protection needed for 1/3 or 1/4 the cost, and while syn oil has much better specs, they're effectively off the scale of practical needs. One exception is cold start protection, syn oil is better there both for starting and wear. So if you live in a cold climate there's a more direct benefit to syn oil. But on the other hand, it seems pretty well accepted that the only measurable benefit of syn oil is extended oil change intervals, so those not comfortable going 12-15K on the same oil as the fleet users who use syn oil do aren't going to get that bennie. Reduction of waste oil is a very big deal for fleet users. In most economic analyses of syn oil, engine wear isn't even considered. What's that tell you?

I recall the Castrol commercial too; but realistically who drives with no plug in their oil pan? I also remember the one showing a Sumo wrestler who couldn't hang onto a screwdriver dipped in STP but easily held one dipped in motor oil. Attention getting, but so what? Lubricity isn't the problem, abrasive dirt is.

I still maintain that for the typical driver doing 12-15K miles a year who'll trade in less than 5 years, synthetic oil is just an extravagence. Granted, the extra cost isn't a big deal for most, so if it makes you feel better, by all means go for it.

And anyone relying on an oil-foam filter to protect the engine had better maintain it religiously because, unlike paper filters, the dirtier they get the less protection they provide. The power gain from less restriction is one thing, the protection from dirt is another.

quote:

ORIGINAL: Linus Gump

TigerLily, The books can be bought at Barnes and Nobles, or from SmokeyYunick.com. B&N is where I got mine.

I went to his site ... He did alot of things other than racing!!! I'm impressed with him too! I'm going to order the book, maybe the book set.

Thanks for the info~