Front Nose dive after T-Bar adjustment-Leveling Kits help?

I recently adjusted my H3 T-Bars about 1,1/2 turns (1" lift). I have about a 1/4 inch gap between the bump stop and lower control arm. Wondering if folks that have done the 2" lift with the new T-Bar keys and shock spacers notice anymore nose diving when thye added the leveling kits. I would imagine that the bump stop is way away from the control arm with that much lift. Would the longer/better aftermarket shocks (Blisten/Contigo) helps in place of the OEM shocks with extensions.
I am looking at the leveling kit, but don't want to worsen the nose dip when stopping hard.
CMT

Here is the two previous posts.  I think Gunner_45 has answered your question.    http://www.hummerforums.com/m_63915/tm.htm  &  http://www.hummerforums.com/m_80962/tm.htm

The only ways to correct nose dive is to extend the bump stops, higher rate torsion bars or stiffer shocks. The best way is to extend the bump stops.
 
You should install longer shocks if you raise front end by cranking TBs.

Has anyone extended the factory bump stops? Who, what, where.
CMT 

I have done it on my H2, but the H3 appears to be more difficult

go with a leveling kit it takes stress off the bar and you get a better ride.
Compare the two keys factory and the new ones you will see a big difference

quote:

ORIGINAL: CMT1

Has anyone extended the factory bump stops? Who, what, where.
CMT 

YES
This picture is with it jacked up because that is the only way you can get them out. Ok the bolt is now down to 2 1/4 inch. I had to go to FastenAll to get "tap" bolts today so I can squeeze it a little more. These are threaded all the way to the head. Total two-tone rubber baby buggy bumper jounce stop is 3 1/8 now. Seems to be important to recess the bolt. Im all the way to even with the turned down groove on the outside of the stock one. The new one I took it down half way. Anymore it may pull thru. 



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quote:

ORIGINAL: 07 HUMMER H3


go with a leveling kit it takes stress off the bar and you get a better ride.
Compare the two keys factory and the new ones you will see a big difference

 
not true at all. There is always stress on the bar...that is how it acts like a spring after all. The rough ride comes from over extending your shocks....not because you are stressing the t-bar. All the keys do is allow more range of adjustment....range that is not needed to get level. The only premature wear coming from cranking the t-bars is in your cv-joints as the angles will change...but guess what??? The SAME exact thing will happen with a key lift also....unless you install a drop diff bracket you will change the cv-joint angle anytime you adjust the front end height.