electrical problem!!!!

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blackbear

1/4/2008 9:00:46 AM

Help!!! ran into a strange problem the other night.

I’m not 100% sure but I think there is a glitch with my computer, the other night I started my H3 and the front and back wipers, power windows and sun roof had no power, had to drive home like that no wipers and it was snowing, fun!!! Anyways the next day check all the fuse and there all good, I took all the accessories off winch, Piaa and air compressor, still nothing I then disconnected the battery for 10 min, later hooked up again then I had power to the rear wiper, power window and sun roof but no front wiper.

Oh and PS the key would get stuck in the ignition could not take it out, again more fun!!!
I pulled each fuse out one by one, all good then boom front wiper started working OK!! Great.I turned off and on the engine a couple of time and everything worked great, I walked away for a couple of hours came back turned the engine on and it started all over again. I did this 3 or 4 times by now and each time the same thing.
What I don’t get is, if it was a short then the battery would of drained or a fuse would blow but nothing.
Any help would be much appreciated.

H3 2006 LUX, ARB Locker, Full skid plates, Toyo MT's 35's, Rock sliders, T-Max winch, PIAA lights

TheGunnyRet

1/4/2008 10:20:07 AM

That's a tough one, hate to say it but you might have to take it to the Dealer. Though you might want to try rain-x, Rain Clear Glass Cleaner & Rain Repellent or something similiar. I use it on all of my vehicles.

blackbear

1/4/2008 10:35:10 AM

I've got a bottle of rain x, going to slap some on, it should do the trick to get me to the

dealer on Monday.

Doc Olds

1/4/2008 10:44:54 AM

Long shot. Test your battery. If you don't have a tester, take the battery to an auto parts store and have them load test it. The PCMs are very persnickety about voltage, a bad cell can cause security problems (stuck key) which you would never notice in an old pre computer car. Not likely, but you never know? Good luck.

NOMOYELLO

1/4/2008 11:40:45 AM

Your service rep will be happy to fix it for you.

blackbear

1/4/2008 12:46:54 PM

I tested the battery voltage and it was 12.3V and 14.4V with the engine running, I don't have a amperage meter so I can't test the amperage draw.

SteveO

1/4/2008 7:50:55 PM

Do a search at the top of this page.......... "KEY STUCK IN IGNITION" There was a guy from Honduras with the same problems you are having.

blackbear

1/4/2008 9:33:55 PM

The guy from Honduras problem was a bit diffrent, he could not put the shifter in drive, I'm able to drive my truck. I un-hooked my battery again this morring for an hour or so and every thing was good for the whole day till about an hour ago, it's almost as if this dam thing was on a timer or something at midnight it shuts down LOL!!

TheGunnyRet

1/5/2008 4:14:05 AM

Putting a Voltmeter across the Battery will only tell you what the voltage is. 14.4v means the alternator was charging. A quick test to see if your altenator is okay, disconnect the Positive lead off the Battery while the vehicle is running. It should stay running, and put your Voltmeter leads on it and see your Alternator Output. If your engine dies your Alternator is bad.

Doc has a point if you have a bad cell you can have APPARENT Voltage but under a load it causes actually has allot less available voltage, wait "PERSNICKETY" voltages, had to use that.

juggalo

1/5/2008 6:05:26 AM

yeah the guys are right-you have to put a "load" on the battery to check it-autozone and those folks do it for free. also, stick a wrech in front of the alternator pulley-if it attracts the wrench like a magnet-its bad.

blackbear

1/5/2008 7:43:26 AM

quote:

ORIGINAL: TheGunnyRet

Putting a Voltmeter across the Battery will only tell you what the voltage is. 14.4v means the alternator was charging. A quick test to see if your altenator is okay, disconnect the Positive lead off the Battery while the vehicle is running. It should stay running, and put your Voltmeter leads on it and see your Alternator Output. If your engine dies your Alternator is bad.

Doc has a point if you have a bad cell you can have APPARENT Voltage but under a load it causes actually has allot less available voltage, wait "PERSNICKETY" voltages, had to use that.

I'll give a shot, got nothing to lose.

blackbear

1/6/2008 11:34:37 AM

I had the battery load tested today and everything is good, look's like I'll have to bring it to the dealer.

08h3alpha

1/6/2008 11:42:45 AM

Keep us updated pls

blackbear

1/10/2008 2:55:46 PM

Droped the H3 off this morning at the dealer

, still no news, I will follow up as soon as I know whats wrong.

H3 2006 LUX, ARB Locker, Full skid plates, Toyo MT's 35's, Rock sliders, T-Max winch, PIAA lights

blackbear

1/11/2008 3:06:25 PM

Update!!! The problem is the BCM (BODY MODULE CONTROL) they started working on it late this afternoon so it won't be ready before Monday.

blackbear

1/14/2008 7:51:30 PM

Picked-up my H3 tonight, they fixed the problem, but now I have a new problem,

DUMB ass don't know what the hell did they, I can't unlock the doors with the key pad and also when you shift to park the doors should unlock, they don't......

H3 2006 LUX, ARB Locker, Full skid plates, Toyo MT's 35's, Rock sliders, T-Max winch, PIAA lights

TheGunnyRet

1/14/2008 10:13:18 PM

Sounds like they didn't fix it? Did it do it when you picked it up? This is a generic list but it provides good insight.

The BCM provides the following features:
• Automatic door locks
• Battery protection
• Chimes
• Compass/mini-trip support
• Courtesy lamps
• BCM diagnostic support
• Door lock inhibit
• Headlamp time delay
• Ignition key lamp
• Illuminated entry
• Instrument panel dimming
• Mechanical instrument cluster support
• Power door locks (with/without remote keyless entry)
• Sliding door memory lock
• Vehicle Theft Security system (VTSS)
• Windshield wipers / washers (front and rear)

Steve #1

1/15/2008 3:33:28 AM

quote:

ORIGINAL: blackbear

Picked-up my H3 tonight, they fixed the problem, but now I have a new problem, DUMB ass don't know what the hell did they, I can't unlock the doors with the key pad and also when you shift to park the doors should unlock, they don't......

These are features that are programable to the BCM.... they just didn't finish the job and program 'em. Not sure about the keypad, but instructions for programing the auto unlock are in the owners manual.

RealJeep

1/15/2008 11:06:57 AM

That sounds like what they did to me when they replaced my radio, I had no idea the radio controled so many other things. They NEVER reprogramed the dang thing before they returned the truck and when I got home the door chime about blew out your ear drums among other things. The dealer was an hours drive away so I took it to another dealer, told them the problem, and 10 minutes later it was fixed. Seems like the other dealers "wrench" was trying to maximize his flat rate time sped through the job without completing the set up. Guess who's NOT going back to dealer #1 again?

blackbear

1/16/2008 8:48:23 AM

These people are idiots!! I was told to look in my manual on how to program personal preferences, I will be dam well surprised to see a section on how to program the door locks to unlock when put in park. I'm waiting for the service manager to call back!!!

Steve #1

1/16/2008 12:22:04 PM

Who's an idiot?

07 H3 Owners Manual (page 193)
Automatic Door Locks

This feature allows you to program your door

locks to a preferred setting.

To set your choice for this feature, perform the

following steps:

1. With the engine off, turn the key to LOCK.

Do not remove the key from the ignition.

2. Press and hold the power door lock button for

about three seconds until the DIC display

shows the current door lock mode.

3. To view the next available mode, press and

hold the reset stem for about two seconds.

Release the reset stem and press and

hold again to view each mode.

4. Once the desired mode is shown on the DIC

display, briefly press the reset stem to set

your choice. The DIC display will then clear.

The following are the available modes:

Lock 1 (default): On vehicles with an automatic

transmission, this mode locks all of the doors

when the vehicle is shifted out of PARK (P) and

unlocks all of the doors when the vehicle is shifted

into PARK (P).

On vehicles with a manual transmission, this

mode locks all of the doors when the vehicle

speed is greater than 15 mph (24 km/h) and

unlocks all of the doors when the key is removed

from the ignition.

Lock 2: On vehicles with an automatic

transmission, this mode locks all of the doors

when the vehicle is shifted out of PARK (P) and

unlocks the driver’s door when the vehicle is

shifted into PARK (P).

On vehicles with a manual transmission, this

mode locks all of the doors when the vehicle

speed is greater than 15 mph (24 km/h) and

unlocks the driver’s door when the key is removed

from the ignition.

Lock 3: On vehicles with an automatic

transmission, this mode locks all of the doors

when the vehicle is shifted out of PARK (P).

The doors will not automatically unlock.

On vehicles with a manual transmission, this

mode locks all of the doors when the vehicle

speed is greater than 15 mph (24 km/h).

The doors will not automatically unlock
Remote Keyless Entry (RKE) Feedback

This feature allows you to program your Remote

Keyless Entry (RKE) feedback to a p

blackbear

1/16/2008 4:21:21 PM

Steve #1 thanks for the nice reply.... One thing I forgot to add in my last post is, the doors don't..... lock when I put it in drive and there is no option for that!!, the remote lock's the doors but does not unlock the doors, so there is something still screwed-up.
PS I did try the procedure and it is in Lock 1 (default)

DonWilms

1/24/2008 6:36:51 PM

Good luck to ALL of you with electrical problems! My H3 has been in the shop 5 times now and is there as we speak. It all started at about 16000 miles. I jumped in and fired it up and all of the suddun all of the dash lights started flashing, the guages went back and forth, the headlights went out and I couldn't get it in gear, and the key would not come out. I immediately called onstar for a quick dionostic test which came back all systems ok! I did a restart and it looked like all systems were a go! Yahoo! Then I realized that this little red light that looked like a door and a padlock was on? Hmmmm....... did another restart and another and another.... That darn light would not go out! I got mad and thought maybe the light was connected to the security system so I got out and opened all the doors and closed them. I fired it up and presto all was cured! :) I took it to the dealer and they said Hmmm...... and scratched their heads. "You'll need to bring it back the next time it happens so we can pull the codes" I have done this five times now and many lines of B.S. later I am giving up! The wife has been stranded on the freeway twice and the family stranded in Mexico once. each time the cure has been to get out and slam all of the doors? As it turns out the B.C.M. (Body Control Module) is located in the passengers side kick panel. The dealer replaced this and the connector pins at about 18000 miles and all was great!!!! At 20400 miles all was still going good. I went to Vegas last week and when I got back home...Here we go again! It now sits in the dealer and calls have gone out to G.M. Corp. There comes a point when you have to say I'm not going to take this any more!!! After giving them all of the service records I have been told that the Buy Back Department will be contacting me on Monday 1/28/08. I'll let you all know what happens then. In the mean time DON'T TAKE NO FOR AN ANSWER! MAKE THEM FIX IT OR BUY IT BACK!

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blackbear

1/25/2008 11:27:30 AM

Man that really sucks!!. So far so good for me since they replaced the BCM, I still have to bring it back so they can reprogram a few things they didn't do the last time, they also cracked my fuse box cover, I'm just waiting for them to call to say it's in to go back and get every thing done.

caboman

5/28/2008 6:59:14 AM

Hi Gents -
New poster here. I was glad to see after 5min of searching others have seen the problem I did with my 2006 H3 last night. Just got home from the airport (45min drive) and turned off my rig. When we opened the doors to get out, I immediately noticed the dome light didn't come on. I tryed to start it again and, nothing, completely dead.
Further:
- The key was stuck in the ignition
- the horn didn't work
- the button on the shifter (automatic) was locked
- no power at all, anywhere

I told my babe to keep the front doors open so I could get a flashlight. She gets her suitcase out of the back and slams the back door, and EUREKA everything comes back on. Full power, etc. I did notice when I started it up that the orange lights in the middle of all the knobs were flashing (temp knobs, etc)- but I was too tired to mess with it at that point.
Thanks for the info on the BCM- it seems I have a similar problem. 19K miles and not one problem to this point.

Other symptoms:
- the right signal light started flashing much faster than normal the day before this happened
- My radio has had two problems
1) One FM1 it can't store the bass and treble settings- always have to reset
2) for the last 6months, about 50% of the time it loses the time and on restart it comes up with some random time

Please let me know if any of you guys have solved your problems with the BCM. I can tell this is the classic intermittent problem where the dealership will tell me they cant get to fail when I bring it in. I am trying to save myself some angst with your help!

Thanks-
Albert

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