quote:
ORIGINAL: importkiller
almost as silly as lowering a hummer 
Ouch. Easy there Killer.
Actually,...I'm something of a perfectionist,...and it would pain me too much to butcher the front suspension geometry.
The rear end is a different matter. It's a good 'ole late 19th century, iron axle on leaf spring design. You can raise or lower that by a fair amount with no effects on suspension geometry.
Therefore,...it is (IMHO) the INTELLIGENT thing to do to get most of the leveling done with the rear of the car,...and not the front (which has early to mid 20th century double "A" arm suspension,...( a suspension design that is very much affected by large changes in ride height. Not only raised CG, but altered roll center, roll axis, max CV joint deflection angles, (and camber and toe, both of which are easilly correctable with an alignment))
I want mine leveled (like about everyone on this board),..but I want to do it the right way.
Seems everyone loves the concept car trucks with the low ride height and big tires,...but those same people forget what makes a truck look good when it comes time to modify their own.
Example. The H3T concept. See any 9" - 14" fender well gaps there? Nope. It's low with big tires,.....just like a trophy truck would have.
Now,...doesn't that look hot? And modern? It's probably on 20" rims with 35" or bigger tires. Fender well gaps at what?......4" front and 5" rear? (That would equate to a 3" drop in the rear and a 1" drop in front by the way).
If I was going to buy mine out,....I'd definately want to put some 18" rims on it and some very quiet (but agressive looking) 35" tires. That would make it look a bit like a trophy truck instead of screaming "short man complex". Of course,..I'm 6' 2" and 215 lbs,...so I feel fine riding around in a 1" average drop (2" rear, 0-1/4" front). Also,..my GF is 5' 2", and it's a little bit easier for her to get in when it's lowered. But sometimes I still pick her up and put her in.
