changing oil

I picked up some Mobil 1 5-30 synthetic (6 qts as specified by the manual) and a new filter from the dealer. I slid underneath to check it out and it looks pretty challenging. Then I read the manual to see that you are "supposed" to just go when the CHANGE OIL light comes on and the dealer will reset it. It looks like you must remove the protective plate which is also attached to the skid plate. The filter is also blocked and will make a hell of a mess when you take it off!

It was too late tonight to attempt this, but I will tomorrow and post info.

OK here's how it's done:

You need an AC/DELCO PF61 oil filter and 6qts of 5w 30 oil. Also a 13mm socket on a larger drive size, and some patience.

I recommend that you drive the H3 up on ramps for easier access. There is a large metal deflector plate over the oil pan. First LOOSEN the 2 13MM bolts nearest the rear of the vehicle. Then REMOVE the 2 13 MM bolts that attach to the silver skid plate. Next slide the black plate toward the rear of the vehicle and the 2 larger holes at the 2 LOOSENED bolts will allow you to slip off the cover. Next remove the 2 13 MM bolts that hold on the silver skid plate at the front of the vehicle.

Now you have access to the oil pan drain bolt, remove the oil fill cap on the engine and remove the oil pan drain bolt (also 13MM) and drain all the oil. It runs on that rail some and you will have a small mess so be prepared. You will now see the oil filter to the left (facing the front of the vehicle) which is also above a support bar and akward to get to. You will probably have to use a small oil filter wrench to remove this. I am a powerlifter and could not budge the filter by hand. There is a small spout under the filter that will help with some of the draining but again be prepared for a mess.

Of course once all the oil is fully drained, replace the oil pan drain bolt and tighten well. Replace the PF61 oil filter and clean the areas where the oil has splattered. Some of this oil will sit in the rail and drip out later, don't be alarmed as you can't get to all of it to clean it.

First replace the sliver skid plate but loosely installing the front 2 13MM bolts. Then slide the black metal cover into place the way it was removed with the end that goes to the front of the vehicle UNDER the silver skid plate. Install those 2 13 MM bolts fairly snug. Now finally install the 2 13MM bolts at the rear of the black metal cover and tighten all the 13 MM bolts.

YOU ARE DONE!!!

thanks for the info!!

y would u change ur own oil ? the dealer in memphis offers a $30 change that includes a wash and a vac. and every 4th one is free

I looked at changing mine and it looks a little challengeing as well. Any tips for the H2?

i found that it's far more efficient to let the dealer do it, same cost as any jifylube type place, and they offer a wash as well.

Great advice! Only problem is my dealer is 150 miles away, and when I do go to KB at San Antonio, I'm always in a hurry. So I just take it to Jiffy Lube.

bummer, that's a tank of gas to get the oil changed. does jiffylube know how to reset your computer?

yeah, and they've thaught me a couple of times how to do it, but I keep forgetting.

I just got my oil cahnged in my Chevy work truck and Valvoline OIl change. To reset the computer they had me turn the key 2 clicks forward and press the gas 3 times with in 5 seconds.
Does that sound like that would work for the Hummer? Probably a GM thing?
Otherwise I think our manual will have it in there, I'll have to take a look.

the manual should say ...we own a repair shop and every maker has a diffrent way to reset the light..
hope it helps

i thought the guy that told me how to reset it was pulling my leg when he said you had to do something with the interior light switch. is this all some kind of GM "secret hand shake" thing?

Even if it were a GM thing, it wouldn't work on the hummer. Intercooled is closer to the right way of doing it.

i've got the GM shop manuals, both phone book sized parts, i'm sure it's in there, but i'm too lazy to look. besides, it's raining, i got better things to think about . . .

Okay, straight from the 2005 H2 manual, page 3-46: To reset the Engine Oil Life System, use the fuel button to reach the ENGINE OIL LIFE screen and then press and hold the select button for five seconds while ENGINE OIL LIFE is displayed. OIL LIFE RESET will appear on the display for 10 seconds to let you know the system is reset.

My words: the fuel button is the one that has the gasoline pump drawing and the select button is the one with the arrow. Buttons are on the steering wheel.

Any question?

Efrain, you the man!!! Very simple!! Thanks for looking that up. That blinking light will drive you crazy!!! I'm going to mark that page because I know I'll forget!

ive changed the oil in my h3, the first time it was a little difficult but after that its easy, there is a plastic oil drip pan on the front crossmember, that when you loosen the oil filter will drip on and funnel down into your pan, the easiest cleanest way to get at the filter and remove it is from the top (hood) of the engine there is plenty of room to do this,

I use synthetic, they won't do that for $30 and my dealer is 130 miles away...

My dealer told me every 3,000 miles even the manual says the light will come. On my 4runner was every 5,000 i guess it what type of driving you do.On star said i have 73 percent of oil life left well i'm do for one real soon so i guess i just do the 3,000 I ues to do it myself but theses days it cheaper to go to the dealer any GM dealer can do it they dont have to be a hummer dealer it just the colordo.

quote:

ORIGINAL: dilo2001gt

My dealer told me every 3,000 miles even the manual says the light will come. On my 4runner was every 5,000 i guess it what type of driving you do.On star said i have 73 percent of oil life left well i'm do for one real soon so i guess i just do the 3,000 I ues to do it myself but theses days it cheaper to go to the dealer any GM dealer can do it they dont have to be a hummer dealer it just the colordo.

I have 7,000 miles now and no light has come on. I changed at 1000 and 6000. It was easier the second time did it in 45 minutes.

ive changed the oil twice already at 500 miles, and 1500 miles, at 3000, i will change it again, which is when i will switch over to mobil 1 super synthetic, i have run it in all my vehicles since it has come out, i am able to change it in under a half hour now, from start to finish, it relatively easy, i have always changed it every 3000 with the exception of the first couple which is basically to removed the contaminated filters,

Mobil 1 is such an outstanding oil, it is used from the factory in all new Corvettes, GTO's, SSR's and XLR's, also it is now being put in all of SAAB cars and GM reccommended oil change intervals on them is a whopping 50,000 miles between oil changes, because the oil doesnt break down because it is synthetic

The dealer told me it needs to be changed every 7500 miles, or quarterly.

Ya but for $30 dollar and a car wash it lest time then 45min to me it worth going to the dealer and let them get rid of the old oil
I use to change my own on my other cars but theses day it is not worth it.

yeah but your not getting synthetic for $30 at the dealer, you are getting bottom of the barrel cheap oil that costs $1 quart

I agree, my opinion only a real el Cheapo would change their own oil nowadays, unless they have plenty of time on their hands or an old car, or far far away to a dealer. With a new purchase the prices nowadays are so low it is well worth changing it at a shop. I am glad I do not have to worry about this, they gave the 2 year free oil changes and tire rotations package because of my ordeal with DVD hehe, but I still would have gone do the daler and paid their price if I did not get it.