Aux Switches

I am looking at lights for my gobi rack but i cant think of a good way to turn them on!
I see there are 2 plugs in the dash under the climate controls for what I assume to be switches. Maybe for the roof lights and..something else?
Anybody know where I can get switches to go in there or just the part # for the factory Aux switch? A picture would be nice I suppose too.
And then does anybody know how to wire up a gobi rack??? It came with wires but they arent attached to anything..?

quote:

ORIGINAL: Ghostrider

I am looking at lights for my gobi rack but i cant think of a good way to turn them on!
I see there are 2 plugs in the dash under the climate controls for what I assume to be switches. Maybe for the roof lights and..something else?
Anybody know where I can get switches to go in there or just the part # for the factory Aux switch? A picture would be nice I suppose too.
And then does anybody know how to wire up a gobi rack??? It came with wires but they arent attached to anything..?

Ghost,

The 2 oem switches are made for the roof and brush guard oem off-road lights and each kit comes with a harness. The switch will work with other lights but you need the harness plug to plug into the back of the switch. I just bought a switch/harness from a guy on another list for by gobi lights and am waiting for it and will figure out how to wire it when I have it in hand.

Don't have a part # at the moment but check with your dealer and they can get the #'s for you. I think you can get the switch/harness for about $50 from gmpartsdirect. You can get other switches to work in those holes but most toggle switches just don't look right and I wanted mine to look factory.

The wires on the gobi are for wiring rear back-up lights they just run from front to back on each side. I used them but just one pair on the left side to run both lights.

Here's a pic of a garage door opener I wired into one of mine 2 switch locations using a momentary switch from radio shack.

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Thats a good idea with the garage door opener! Instead of $100 in switches, I think I am going to try a on-off-on toggle from radioshack for the rears so I can either have them on all the time, off, or come on in reverse...Just waiting on them to be delivered! Then a 2 way toggle for the fronts whenever I decide to get those too.

Did you find a clean place to run the wires up to the rack without drilling a hole through the roof?

I got these....

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quote:

ORIGINAL: Ghostrider

Did you find a clean place to run the wires up to the rack without drilling a hole through the roof?

I'm going down the A pillar on the outside but haven't pulled the cover off yet to see how to get in the cab or under the hood. My roof rails are supposed to be replaced next week (cracked) so I'm waiting to run the wiring after that. I may have a look this weekend and let you know.

Connector GM Part # 12101864

Switch GM Part # 88963884
I paid $48 for each switch at GMPARTSDIRECT.COM

If you loosen the
plastic on the top there is a channel you can run the wire through. Take the plastic off the piller there is a screw that holds it in place then pop it out. There are a few bayonet clips you have to pop out. Next pull the fake air box up. open the hood and pull up it will come off. Becarefull you dont slam it into the bottom of the hood. Now you have room to run wires to the engin. I put 8" KCs on a Tule MOAB rack.

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I wired a lighted Toggle switch for my light bar, this one in fact:


I ran wires from the switch to the relay through the door hinge area. I'll have to take some pics of it. I used the power for the switch from the cigarette lighter I believe, either that or the car stereo. I don't remember. I used a 25 Amp relay and the switch is rated at 20A. I can take pics if you want.


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quote:

ORIGINAL: fisherman119





Connector GM Part # 12101864

Switch GM Part # 88963884
I paid $48 for each switch at GMPARTSDIRECT.COM

If you loosen the
plastic on the top there is a channel you can run the wire through. Take the plastic off the piller there is a screw that holds it in place then pop it out. There are a few bayonet clips you have to pop out. Next pull the fake air box up. open the hood and pull up it will come off. Becarefull you dont slam it into the bottom of the hood. Now you have room to run wires to the engin. I put 8" KCs on a Tule MOAB rack.

fisherman119, are these part numbers for the same switches as in The Riddler's pics?

Yes Thay Are.....GM dose not include the connectors with the switches. Remember to order both. Also when I wired my lights
I used the KC wiring harness. The harness has a relay in it. This means only a little amount of juice runs through the switch. Just
enough to trip the relay. The relay takes all the electricity. I think I would melt them if I put 260 watts through them.

This works and got them at pep boys for 4.99 a peice works great and looks great.someone posted this photo before but i have the same switches


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I have To admitt thay look great and a better price

quote:

ORIGINAL: nascar 17

This works and got them at pep boys for 4.99 a peice works great and looks great.someone posted this photo before but i have the same switches


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Looks SHARP

Yes , very nice craftsmanship...Looks factory.

I agree, looks good

Yes, they do look good and the price is excellent. My next question is, how do you remove the faceplate?

stick your finger in the cigarette sockets and GENTLY up and pullout. It is held in place with bayonett clips.....

Thank-you for the help in removing the face plate.

I hate to drag up the past, but I had remebered reading this thread some time ago and have since added a set of PIAA lights to my bull bar. You gotta love the search function on this forum. Anyhow, I bought the GM aux. light switch from the dealer but it came without any documentation. When I called the parts dept. they were of no help. What I need to know from any of you guys that used this OEM switch on aftermarket lights is which pigtail post is the +12v, load, and ground. The pigtail is marked A,B,C at the switch connector. I put a multi-meter across it and thought I had it figured out, but when I plugged it up it was a no-go. I know that the lights are wired correctly because I can plug the PIAA switch into the harness and the lights function. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks,
      Greg

 If its the pushbutton style like in the pics, engage the switch and with a + and - test wire, try combos until you get the on indicator to light.  then you know youve got the 12+ and ground.  then the remaining one is the Acc.
I think in general it goes from top to bottom:

A: 12+
B: To Acc.
C: Vehicle ground

Let us know what you find!

Thanks Ghostrider, I was beginning to think my post got lost at the end of that old thread. I'll give that a try.  I ended up getting frustrated and plugged the damn Piaa switch back in. From what I was seeing with the multi-meter, it should have been in the circuit correctly. Sometimes you just have to walk away for a little while when frustration sets in and come back to the problem with a clear head.  Also, It never hurts to ask for help. LOL
                                                              Thanks, Greg

Make sure you use a relay. Don't run full power through the switches

does anyone have pictures of an aux plug for a MP3 player or DVD player? 

quote:

ORIGINAL: nascar 17

This works and got them at pep boys for 4.99 a peice works great and looks great.someone posted this photo before but i have the same switches


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The holes are round. Your switch is oval. How did you make that work?
Those are simple on-off switches right?  I wish I could find a hi-low-off switch that size for my seat heaters.